Lytham St. Annes Coast

'Local stroll'

Date: 18 Feb 2012                                         Start time: 13:32

Start point: The Boulevard / Denford Avenue, Lytham St Anne's - SD332279

Walkers: Mark Illingworth, Emma Lever

Distance: 10.99miles                                      Time: 3:56:12

Route: Walk SSW down Denford Avenue toward copse of trees. At trees, turn right to walk across flat grassy area toward car park and cafe. Continue through car park and over grassy dunes to left of cafe. At miniature railway take inner path past pub, cinema and swimming pool toward pier entrance. Pass front of pier and walk down dunes to sandy beach. Turn SE and walk across beach to concrete sea wall. Join 'Lancashire Coastal Way' (not waymarked) between dunes left and marshes right, with optional diversion over dunes. At steps for Fairhaven Lake, take these and follow path if tide is in, or follow sands in front of concrete sea defences if tide is out. Walk E across Ganny's Bay and up to raised promenade. Again, an option is to walk over small dunes to left. Where promenade opens up with flat expanse, take next staircase to your right down to the pebbles and sand. Continue E past slipway and marshes to jetty. Walk out and back along wooden jetty then head E along low grassy track past windmill and old lifeboat house. After 100yards or so follow a grassy path S across marshy area to view river channel then head back towards path and office buildings, avoiding muddy ditches as you go. Walk around rear of office building and up concrete steps for views of river channel then return around offices and follow higher tarmac path past windmill, car parks and lifeboat station until a path N leads inland to Lowther Gardens via zebra crossing. Walk diagonally right to left through Lowther Gardens and follow road W on exit. After a couple of hundred yards turn N up private road over railway and turn left at gate through Witch Wood. Follow wood trail to left to emerge at road and follow road to right until a church. Take the second left at junction by church then take next left and go over a bridge. Take next right after bridge and walk past auction house and residential properties until you reach conservation area. Walk left by conservation area the right in front of school. After the old school building converted to flats, turn left down dual carriageway and take second right to start point.

Weather: Mostly sunny with stiff north-westerly winds and a couple of icy cold showers quickly blowing over.

Notes: This area is my home - its where I've walked, ran, cycled and played my whole life, so I have hundreds of stories, but I never really think much of what you see on this walk is noteworthy - when really it very much is.

I was disappointed during this walk that we could only get a third of the way up St Anne's pier and couldn't get outside (it was winter though!). The games in  their largely resembled those of my early teenage years, but nearby Steady Eddies looked closed (it isn't), as is the casino I first played table games at. Gambling memory lane.

The 'dead pier' wasn't visited as we were in the middle of a strong icy shower at this point in time. It looks a lot smaller these days than it seemed in my youth. It can't just be that I've got bigger. It used to feel like a risk jumping off the end. I don't know if it would anymore.

The section between the Beach Terrace Cafe, around Fairhaven Lake, to Granny's Bay is very familiar to me nowadays, running or walking here often. The switch from wide sands to grassy wetland and back to sands always confuses me. This stretch looks differently made up all throughout the year. My favourite feature around here is the beacons along the sea defences at Fairhaven Lake, but I've never seen these lit up in my life - would be nice if they were. One thing I saw during this walk that I never have before was the low sand drifts which ghosted along just above the ground. It looked pretty cool, but got the camera lens dirty getting down close to it.

Something to note, which I rarely pause to consider, is the amount of impressive and varied houses you see on this stretch of the Fylde coast. Contemporary ones just being built, concrete buildings of the 1950s-70s and mansions dating back to the Victorian era all side by side. Speaking of buildings, I must mention the much photographed and painted Lytham Windmill - the iconic focal landmark of my home town. Along with golf, this image is the best known of Lytham to non-locals. It only really grabs me these days in pictures. I can walk past without looking and I have few photos of my own, but Emma has done a number of great reproductions of the famous scene.

My favourite thing about this walk was the chance to reminisce and share my childhood stories with Emma. The highlight being jumping ditches down past Lytham Green. We didn't dare jump the larger ditches where my brother and grandad once turned into a muddy mess once upon a time, but this is a fun and interesting landscape that reminds of some of the reasons I still love my hometown. Really, the only thing missing from the walk was a pint in The Taps - but we even got round to that in the evening.

*the observations and notes above were made in February, just after going on this walk. Since this time a curious change has taken place on the landscape pictures above. The photo shown was taken on the day of the walk, 18 February 2012. Through 2011 it was almost beach out here. Now all that wet sand has turned green and grassy. I'm guessing the wet and not particularly beach friendly summer of 2012 is to thank for it, but it shows just how quickly nature can move and the natural world around us can change. I thought I had a picture, I'll get one.

Loughrigg Fell

'Sunday stroll up the smallest central fell'

Date: 15 Jan 2012                                           Start time: 10:37

Start point: Silverthwaite Car Park, Skelwith Bridge - NY342036

Walkers: Mark Illingworth, Emma Lever

Distance: 6.09miles                                         Time: 3:40:23

Route: Take the uphill track behind the car park hut that at first seems only a gateway into private residence. The track right goes uphill over the west shoulder of Little Loughrigg. A spring to your left is followed by the path veering right. At the wall behind the white house, follow a narrow lane left and join a tarmac road. Follow road left to a stile on your right. Head across the pasture, which falls into the western end of Loughrigg Tarn, towards a wall stile. Over the stile, head uphill slightly right to a gate which joins a lane running above the tarn. Turn left up the lane then join a path branching right which runs north-west following a wall until you pass through a gate into a small enclosure with with a stepped path and neighbouring stream showing the way unhill in a east-north-east direction. The path turns from pitched steps to a grassy slope and you reach an opening with a large cairn. Turn west to make the obvious short climb to the summit top. From here walk north-north-west towards Ewe Crag for views of Grasmere to north-west. Retrace steps to summit trig point and continue south-east with slight decline to Ivy Crag for views of Windermere. From Ivy Crag's highest point, drop south and join the grassy path following a dry-stone wall. Follow the path south to a bridleway. Turn right (west) on bridleway and follow to a gate. The path becomes a lane and you head in front of the cottage on your right hand side. The lane forks with both prongs going to the same road - you turn right then follow the next left left downhill on the steep access road to Neaum Crag Caravan Site. You continue to Skelwith Bridge, emerging opposite the hotel, turn right and cross the road to follow a path towards Elterwater which drops into a woodland trail that passes Skelwith Force Waterfall. Follow the path into the field alongside River Brathay until a path breaks off north-east past a large tree towars the wood and the road, which you then cross to the car park.

Weather: Minus degree start with a lot of ice on pathways. Bogs ans pools on Loughrigg Fell top were frozen over, with some thick enough to walk over. Skies were largely blue with some scattered cloud. There was no rainfall, but greyer clouds were clinging to some of the higher tops to the west beyond the Langdale Pikes. Temperatures didn't get much above freezing. A stiff icy breeze on the fell top was blowing from what felt like the south keeping things very cold and adding a rosy hue to our cheeks. The wind wasn't felt anywhere but the very top of the fell. The sun was low in the sky but large and bright.

Notes: The park authority ran car park isn't cheap but isn't extortionate. There is some parking on the road in Skelwith Bridge, but as ever in popular areas this is gone early on a Sunday.

Loughrigg Tarn offers a lovely view, especially from higher up where it gives a perfect reflection of surroundings on dry still days like this.

Loughrigg really feels like it is central to what the Lake District is all about. It isn't simple but can be accessed from many directions and towns and offers the feel of real fell walking without tiring you out. From all flanks of the vast fell top you get awesome views of the Lakes and a perfect view of some of the higher fells, notably the Langdale Pikes and Fairfield through to St Sunday Crag. My favourite view was the north to north-west aspect overlooking Grasmere - it was well worth the diversion from the summit to see this view.

Skelwith Force just off another stretch of the 'Cumbria Way' was a notable stopping point. Its location and easy access probably warrant its greater attention than nearby Colwith Force. This isn't as tall or exciting but impressive and powerful nonetheless. The bridges and boulders around allow for great access to take photos.

 

 

Black Crag + Holme Fell

'Two little Wainwrights for two special occasions'

Date: 14 Jan 2012                                             Start time: 10:18

Start point: Elterwater Park Guest House - NY337033

Walkers: Mark Illingworth

Distance: 9.99miles                                           Time: 6:32:49

Route: Walk away from the guest house down the private lane towards A593. At the road, turn left and pass three houses before heading south on well identified public bridleway through Stephen how towards High Arnside. Follow the path over numerous becks through fields containing sheep until you reach an imtermittent dry-stone/fence-post wall that runs almost exactly east-west from High Arnside farm buildings towars the summit (not visible, but clear from the map). Stay to the north side of the wall and head uphill towards a farm gate east-north-east of the farm wall (failing to spot this gate and heading to the next field southwards calls for a climb over dry-stone wall!). From the gate, don't follow the obvious bridleway. Instead, head upwards to the crest ahead. From here the summit marked by a trig point will be visible a short east-north-east walk away. From the summit Iron Keld Plantation and Tarn Hows are seen to the south-west. You walk in their direction between the two modest humps of higher ground. A clear path takes you through Iron Keld Plantation and at its end turn right to follow bridleway until it joins the 'Cumbria Way', where you head south into Tom Heights. Folow a flat plain path round the western edge of Tarn Hows then take path marked 'Yew Tree Tarn', following Tom Gill which leaves the tarn just before the gate on the main path. Follow the track west downhill past numerous waterfalls, including Tom Gill waterfall. The path ends at Tom Gill car park. Follow the A593 west a short distance to Yew Tree Farm then head north up the bridleway infront of the farm property. This path takes you through Harry Guards Wood as you start to climb the eastern side of Holme Fell. The path gets steeper as direction of travel moves from northwards to westwards, until you appear at a large cairn signalling arrival at Uskdale Gap. Ignore the cairn topped Ivy Crag to the south-east and head south-west to the large bare rock that clearly stands as the highest ground. From here, head south to a cairn to see further views of Coniston Water before walking downhill in a northern direction towards, and then between, the disused reservoirs. Continue north through the wood until you reach a gate joining to a quarry road and small car park. Follow the path along the western cliff top of the quarry then head up the lane through 'Hodge Close' collection of cottages. Follow the lane north to Strang End where you turn east along side the cottage to follow tarmac road to High Park. At the building's driveway you join the 'Cumbria Way' with a short diversion along the road from Elterwater. You re-join the way-marked path to your left, eastwards past Low Park to the guest house.

Weather: Cold, crisp air and crunchy underfoot. Temperatures started below zero and never got much above. Skies were blue and practically cloudless, although rising mist caused apparent cloud inversions in distant valleys. There was no wind to speak of, even on the (relatively low) fell tops. Care had to be taken on lanes due to black ice, but some bogs weren't quite as frozen over as others where the sun had hit south / south-east facing areas.

 

Notes: Firstly, Elterwater Park Guest House was a very nice place to stay (http://www.elterwater.com/). I don't think you could start the walk there if you weren't staying, but there are a number of places to park a car around the route. The room was fine, although the TV was too small to watch Scholesy's comback goal in good style. Price was reasonable and the host couple were very nice. the breakfast was delicious and set us up well for a full winter day's walking.

Mountain bikers are something to look out for on the first stretch of this walk until you join the Cumbria Way at Tarn Hows. Luckily the ones we met were panting on uphill sections so no dangers.

The sheep at High Arnside were grunpy sorts, making lots of noise but no danger to walkers. Other wildlife include birds of web-footed variety and family dogs at Tarn Hows, horses in the field above Yew Tree Farm and some brutish looking but appently sedate bulls off the path to Strang End.

The summit of Black Crag was wonderful - to look at with its National Trust trig point, and to look from with several lakes and tarns in view across the southern horizon (Windermere, Esthwaite Water, Coniston Water, Tarn Hows, Blelham Tarn) and spectacular higher ranges across the north and west horizons (Fairfield horsehoe, Langdale Pikes, Bow Fell, Scafell Massif, Wrynose Fells, Coniston Fells). Its relative isolation from higher fells makes this a brilliant viepoint after a low exhertion climb.

Wray Castle is visible on Windermere's shore during this walk. It sets the scene for another Victorian exhibition in creativity at Tarn Hows. Both were manufactured during Victorian times and want to loko like something older and more organic. Both divide my opinion. We luched at Tarn Hows, it was picturesque, but the path around was tediously dull and well trampled by noisey irritating non-walker families who go to Lakeland without getting to experience it. Those who do want some of the experience take the Tom Gill path rather than park at the south end of the tarns. Here you follow a typical lovely woodland beck and path. What made it spectacular were the waterfalls, which I really enjoed and the water flow was fast and exciting.

Yew Tree Farm deserves a note as it was a prominent location in the Beatrix Potter Hollywoodisation, playing Hill Top. As she went on to own the Tarn Hows estate, she had probably known this farm although not lived there I suspect, but she isn't a specialist subject of mine.

Holme Fell ascent wasn't as easy as Black Crag and the views weren't as enjoyable, although the full length view of Coniston Water was worthwhile. The hill top panorama was heavily influenced by the looming south-western Wrynose and Coniston fells. The most enjoyable aspect was the easy but scrambly routes around the fell top. The northern flank would probably not be fun to walk on in spring or autumn as it had the feel of a frozen bog, but I liked the idea I was walking in places I might not at other times of the year.

The disused reservoirs were frozen over, giving a group of boys a lot of fun whilst their mum made a fire. This seemed a better family idyll than a dull scoot around Tarn Hows.

Possibly the most mesmerising and spectacular part of this walk were the quarries at Hodge Close. Firstly, on approach the road looked like the layout for a rally special stage, then we noticed some disused workings and ruined buildings to our right, then we looked behind usa nd saw the real show - deep, open, sheer quarry going down 100ft or more. A deep green pool fills the bottom of the crevasse. Rusty disused tracks sneak into the northern cliff face. Through the other side of this gap in the cliff is a smaller but just as deep quarry pit. More vegetation than water fills this hole. The cliff if possible looks steeper and this pit is no less impressive. I knew fromt he map there was a quarry but I didn't expect to see something this amazing. The industrial past of the lakeland had shaped many parts of the national park in a beautiful way - this disused quarry was by far the most man-amde sight on this walk. You can enter by the south-west corner of the first pit to explore a bit further. When my scrambling skills are greater I fully intend to do this.

The long day walking at this time of year meant light was fading, but their was still time for one more spectacular sight - Colwith Force Waterfall. Neither of us had seen this before and on the OS Map Skelwith Force is given greater emphasis, so I hadn't researched it beforehand. We saw a small man-made fall redirecting the stream and thought this could be it and were unimpressed, but as we continued we heard a building roar of water falling ahead. The wash built up over a few tightening but not very tall falls as big boulders directed the stream into a smaller space. When you get round this final secion of the falls a 10ft+ tall fall of frothing white water is the reward. This was a very happy surprise to round of an enjoyable and varied full days walk.

We ended the day (after a quick shower) at our third Wainwright - Wainwright's Inn at Chapel Stile (http://www.langdale.co.uk/dine/wainwrights/). Emma had braised lamb that she ate all of and wouldn't shut up about. I had a steak and ale pie. The meat was nice but the pastry was weak and it came on the plate in a pot, separate to veg and chips. Sticky toffee pudding with caramel ice cream was very tasty.

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Castle Crag

'The smallest Wainwright to start the year right'

Date: 7 Jan 2012                                              Start time: 10:56
Start point: Borrowdale Visitor Centre, Grange - NY254175
Walkers: Mark Illingworth, Emma Lever
Distance: 5.14miles                                          Time: 3:11:49

Route: From Grange, head south along route of 'Cumbria Way'. Pass Holmcrag Wood and Hollows Farm to meet a broad meader of River Derwent and follow the river east, before breaking south through Low Hows Wood to High Hows Wood, via the disused quarry and Millican's Cave. Shortly after leaving the wood climb a stile to your right and head north-westerly throuh field to wood and summit top ahead. At the top of a short but quite steep climb, climb a wall stile and turn north to weave up winding slate path to the shelf below the summit top. A short burst further north-east and you reach the summit, with the Borrowdale War Memorial making up the summit rock. Descend back down the slate path then head west downhill to join the westerly branch of the 'Allerdale Ramble' and follow Broadslack Gill north between the craggy eastern face of Low Scadel and High Spy and the sheer western face of Castle Crag. This path leads down to River Derwent where you follow the 'Cumbria Way' back to Grange.

Weather: Squally showers and blustery but strong westerly winds, with some gale-force gusts and a distinct lack of the bright spells forecast for the afternoon. Rare signtings of blue sky and distant rods of sunlight breaking through the clowds. The higher tops of Skiddaw north and the Scafell massif south were shrouded in cloud cover. Small patches of snow were visible on northern side of Glaramara.

The water of River Derwent was an almost tropical looking green-blue colour and very clear o the river bed - a remarkable sight in single digit temperatures.
The quarry caves are well worth the diversion off the main path. The large mouthed lower cave is impressive, but the higher cave with 'the attic' sleeping area and a vast but enclosed main chamber is the more interesting of the two caves - perfect for a stop for lunch in poor weather, it would also be a great spot for a wild sleep and its no wonder Millican Dalton furnished this as his home between the wars. A tunnel cave is blasted out of the rocks further along the route but offers less shelter from adverse weather.
The recent high winds had caused a lot of damage to tress. One interesting uprooting had disturbed the path on the climb to the summit with the roots coming up and taking some of the path away. A couple of wind felled trees blocked the path following Broadslack Gill.
The campsite at Hollows Farm has the base for exploring Borowdale and the fells above. We would have walked longer, but not on a day like this one.

An introduction

At the end of 2011 I bought myself a blank paged, hard backed book. The purpose of this book was to act as a journal when I went walking. 

 
I wanted a record of where I've been and what I saw - I've found the walks of the past merging into one with few specific moments standing the test of time in my detiorating memory. I also thought it would be nice to look back on, to hold as a keep sake and to serve as inspiration to keep visiting our great outdoors.

It wasn't written to be shared, but it wasn't written to be personal either. But I've made the decision to blog my days in the British outdoors for anyone who stumbles across it to read and hopefully enjoy, and maybe follow where I've been before. 

The walks start from January 2012 and I'll be adding them as and when I get time until I'm up to date and can start blogging about fresher trips. 

As the book starts in January 2012, I felt it was appropriate to start with some ambitions for the year, or new year's walking resolutions if you will, and I feel it's also appropriate to start this blog by laying out these ambitions:

1. Walk somewhere new to me
2. Do some coastal walking
3. Tick off 26 more Wainwright's
4. WALK MORE!!!

If you do read the blog and it stirs some memories and spark some inspiration then I would love to hear about it. Either drop a comment or give me a Twitter follow (@markill).